Saturday, May 12, 2012

Angkor Wat, Sunset and Sunrise

Angkor Wat

The largest Hindu temple complex in the world, situated at built by King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century as his state temple, near his capital city of Angkor Thom. As the best-preserved temple in the area, Angkor Wat is the only one to have remained a significant religious center since its foundation – first Hindu, dedicated to the god Vishnu, then Buddhist. The temple has become a symbol of Cambodia, appearing on its national flag, and it is the country's prime attraction for visitors.


the central towers
 The temple is a representation of Mount Meru, the home of the gods and faces west, whereas most of the temples face east.  Many historians and the like believe this is because the king wanted this temple to serve as his burial place.  The central towers are dedicated to the god Vishnu, the towers to the right to the god Krishna, and the towers to the left to Brahma.  Apparently, Brahma is a crap god (something about trying to seduce his daughter) and so all crap things are on the left, including those people who write left-handed.  Nice.


at sunrise, with the reflecting pool

 The temple is now dedicated to Buddha and there are several within the galleries and alcoves of the complex.  Most are headless because in the wars with the Thais, the Thais beheaded the Buddhas to desecrate the temple as well as return home with war souvenirs.

Buddha with many arms

galleries and swimming pools at the top tier of the central tower
 The complex was a causeway the goes over the surrounding moat.  You enter through a gate and walk over another long causeway with naga balustrades (naga being the 5 headed snake), passing two libraries on either side.  You come to two swimming/reflecting pools-- only the right side had water in it when we were there.  The left side was dry.   You then come to the main steps of the three-leveled temple. 
the second causeway with the main entry gate

some of the intricate cravings above doorways

Will makes a head for the Buddha



on the second causeway, with the temples in the background
 The first level of the temple has long galleries on each that tell important stories to the Cambodian people, including the Churning of the Sea Milk, a creation story.   The temple complex was "rediscovered" by the French in the mid-19th century as Cambodia became one of the French colonies of Indochine.  The French helped keep the encroaching jungle at bay both here and other temples in the area (close to Siem Reap, there are about 300 temple ruins). 

looking at the ruins in the second tier from above
 During the Viet Nam War, US bombs and gun fire damaged the temple, collapsing the (wait for it, wait for it), the left side.  The French helped rebuild and restore those towers after the war, but  you can still see bullet holes in the walls. 
Young Buddhist monks
carved bas-reliefs in the galleries featuring mythical stories of battles and gods

the king who built the temple
broken columns from the windows
The entry gate at the east side of the temple was also about 10 feet off the ground and no steps up to the platform--because it was an elephant "dock". The king would ride up on his royal elephant and dismount onto a high platform, level with the carriage on the back of the elephant. The king would come from his city, Angkor Thom, from the east a few kilometers away, to his temple for ceremonies.
the elephant dock doesn't have any stairs leading to the ground
We climbed all round the temple complex, climbing up the incredibly steep stairs to the most scared third level of the central tower-- reserved for the king and his family and the highest priests.  We wandered through the galleries, learning about the creation of demons or daily Khmer life in in the 12th century.  This place was made a UNSECO World Heritage site in 1992 and several international groups are working to restore or maintain the structures and the carvings: Germany, India, Japan, France.  Interestingly, nothing from the US.  Angkor Wat is the destination for about half of the tourists coming to the Cambodia.  The small town of Siem Reap is quickly growing (a new welcome center and airport big enough to receive direct fights from Tokyo are being constructed) with the tourist money pouring into the area. 

Truly an amazing site and Will and I can't believe that we have been able to see the sun both set and rise above Angkor Wat.



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