My Cat Only Loves Me: Jingshan Park & Beihai Park

Jingshan Park, literally translated as "Prospect Hill," is an artificial hill directly behind the Forbidden City and climbing to the top of the park, to the temple, offers amazing views of the Forbidden City and the rest of Beijing.

It is about a 46 meter/150 foot high artificial hill was constructed in the Ming Dynasty entirely from the soil removed to form the moats of the Imperial Palace and nearby canals. That tall of a hill may sound so impressive, until you remember that it-- and the moats and canals-- were all constructed by manual labor and animal power.

Jingshan consists of five individual peaks, and on the top of each peak there lies an elaborate pavilion. These pavilions were used by officials for gathering and leisure purposes. The very top pavilion is directly behind the Fobidden City and is where the central point of Beijing is located.

According to the philosophy of Feng Shui, it is considered good luck to have a mountain (or hill, in this case) to the north of the palaces--it guards against evil spirits sneaking up behind you. Therefore, most of the imperial houses have a mountain behind them. When the capital was moved to Beijing and construction on the Forbidden City, no such hill existed at this location, so one was constructed.

panamic of the Forbidden City from the top of Jingshan Park

Looking down at the northern gate to the Forbidden City

the moat; the relocated dirt is what made the park

Will at the top of Jingshan Park

The park is also famous for another reason. The last emperor of the Ming Dynasty, Chongzehn, committed suicide by hanging himself here in 1644. In April 1644, Li Zicheng, a rebel leader, prepared to take Beijing. Rather than face capture, humiliation and probable execution at the hands of the newly-proclaimed, and ultimately short-lived, Shun Dynasty, Chongzhen arranged a feast and gathered all members of the imperial household aside from his sons. According to Chinese lore, he cried out "Why must you be born into my family?", as he killed them with his sword. All died except his second daughter, 16-year-old Princess Chang Ping, whose left arm was severed as she blocked his sword. Then, Chongzhen, wearing his imperial attire, he fled to Jingshan Hill and hung himself. Pinned to his robe was his suicide note:

I am insufficient in virtues and weak in conducts, hence the heavenly punishment, and the ministers also failed me. Having no dignity to face my ancestors, I would undress my crown and cover my face with hair. Mutilate my body as you wish, but do not harm a single civilian.

Up this path is the tree where Chongzehn hung himself.

more roof decorations on the pavillions

Next to Jingshan Park, through a hutong, is Beihai Park. It is one of the oldest and largest imperial gardens in China. Construction started in 938 AD, with additions throughout the centuries. In the park, there is the Jade Island, a ferry, and several places where one can rent a paddleboat. This was one of the playgrounds of the imperial family. The lake surrounding Beihai Park connects to five other lakes that the royal family would cruise on during Beijing summers.

boats on Zhonghai Lake

At the top of the Jade Island is the White Dagoda, which is a Tibetan/Buddhist temple. It was built in 1651 to mark the first visit of the Dali Lama. This structure was completely restored after an earthquake in 1976.

The White Dagoba

The White Dagoba from the top of Jingshan Hill

The park is a popular destination for Beijingers to walk around the lakes, rent the paddleboats and small motor boats. There is lots of fishing and people walking through, enjoying the weeping willows that line the canals and the lakes.

Going behind the White Dagoba, you can wander east down very steep and slick rocks to the Pavilion of Shared Coolness, which lines the north shore of the Jade Island and where you can grab the ferry.

The ferry took me across Beihai Lake to the north side of the lake, which is a lovely park of terraced trees and plants. One of the exit gates has another nine-dragon screen, and is very similar to one in the Forbidden City.